Preparation of Perfumes ||77||
1Since garlands, perfumes, fine raiment, ornaments and the like do not shine in a man of grey hair, one ought to try to dye the hair, just as one does regarding unguents for the eyes and ornaments .
2-3Put into an iron vessel grains of Kodrava and boil them in acid-gruel (vinegar); grind it well with iron dust and make a fine paste. Apply this to the head after washing the hair with acid-gruel, and covering the head with green leaves, remain for six hours. After that period, remove the paste from the head and apply a paste of myrobalan. Cover it with green leaves and keep it for another six hours. On being washed, the hair will become black.
4After that one should remove the smell of the iron and vinegar by bathing the head and by the application of perfumed hair oils, and then enjoy in the harem the pleasures of kingship along with attractive perfumes and a variety of incense.
5A scented hair-water fit for kings is prepared from equal proportions of cassia-bark, costus, Renuka, Nalika, Sprikka, Rasa, Tagara, Valaka, Naga-Kesara and Patra.
6Hair oil of the scent of Champaka is made from equal quantities of the powder of madder, cattle fish bone, Nakhi, (shell perfume), cassia bark, costus and Rasa, which being mixed with gingelly oil should be heated in the Sun’s rays.
7From equal quantities of Patra, juice of Sihla, Vala and Tagara, an oil called Smaroddeepana ‘kindler of passion’ is made. The same with Vyamaka and fumigated with Katuka, asafoetida, yields a perfutne called ‘Bakula scent’. The same with costus is termed “lotus-scent,” and with sandal, ‘Champaka scent’. With nutmeg, cassia bark and coriander, it goes by the name of ‘Jasmine scent’.
8Take one-fourth of Sathapushpa and Kunduruka, one-half of Nakha and Sihla, and one-fourth of Sandal and Priyangu. These make a perfume which should be fumigated with jaggery and Nakha .
9Guggulu, Valaka, lac, Musta seeds, Nakha and sugar in equal quantities constitute a compound perfume. Another is made from Jatamamsee, Valaka, Sihlat Nakha and sandal.
10Many delightful perfumes are made from Haritaka, Sankha, Ghana, Rasa, Valaka, Jaggery, costus, Saileya and Musta seeds by mixing them in proportions indicated by multiple 1 ninth .
11Four parts each of sugar, Saileya and Musta, two parts each of Sri Vasaka and Sarja juice, and one part each of Nakha and Guggulu, mixed with the powder of camphor and made into a lump of ball with honey, make a royal perfume called “Kopacchada” – Ahger-Iid .
12Take equal quantities of cassia bark, andropogon and Patra and a half-quantity of small cardamoms and pound them to fine powder, which should be enriched with musk and camphor. It will make an excellent toilet powder (perfume for clothes).
13-14The Gandharnava or perfume ocean is prepared from sixteen substances, if every four of them are permuted variously at will and that in one, two, three, or four parts. The substances are: Ghana, Balaka, Saileya, Karpura, Useera, Nagapushpa, Vyaghranakha, Sprikka, Aguru, Madanaka, Nakha, Tagara, Dhanya, Karchura, Chola and Malaya.
15In no perfume should more than one part of coriander be used, for its smell is too powerful. Camphor should be used in a still lesser proportion. These two ought not to be mixed in two, three, or four parts.
16All the above drugs should be fumigated by Srivasaka, resin, jaggery and Nakha severally before all the ingredients are mixed together, and then they should be mixed with musk and camphor.
17The number of perfumes resulting from the sixteen ingredients being mixed in all possible combinations is 174720 (4000+70000+100000+720).
18Each drug taken in one proportion being combined- with three others in two, three and four proportions successively makes six kinds of scents. So, do they, when taken in two, three and four proportions.
19As in this manner four substances combined in different proportions yield 24 perfumes; so too the other tetrads. Hence the sum will be 96.
20Out of a collection cf sixteen kinds of substances, the number of perfumes that can be made by selecting any four will be 1820.
21Since this quantity combined in four different ways admits of 96 variations, this number 1820 must be multiplied by 96. The product will be the total of possible combinations of perfumes.
22Write in a vertical column the numbers 1 to 16 upwards; in a second column by its side write one, and then write above that the sum of the first two figures of the first column, viz , 3; add this result to the third number and write it above that; continue this process until you reach the penultimate number, i.e., 15. Repeat this process in the third and fourth columns also. The last number of the last column will reveal the number 1820. (See figure in the margin).
23-24Make a diagram consisting of 16 compartments as shown below and place them with their respective proportions as:
25-26In a receptacle of 16 divisions in whatever manner (horizontally, vertically or diagonally), you may mix four substances, you get 18 proportions for each of the various compounds of perfumes. Each of the compounds should be blended with Nakhi, Tagara and Turushka, , be enlivened (mixed) by nutmeg, camphor and musk; and be fumigated with jaggery and Nakha. In this way are made scents called ‘Sarvatobhadra’—‘good for all purposes.’
27Many perfumes for the mouth with the smell of Parijata flower are prepared from any tetrad among the above-named ones. They should be enlivened with nutmeg, musk and camphor and sprinkled with mango-juice and honey.
28All those scents into whose composition enter resin and Srivasaka become perfumes for bathing with Valaka and Twak taking the place of the above two.
29-30Make a receptacle of nine divisions and enter in them the following: Lodhra, Usira, Nata (Tagara), Aguru, Musta, Patra, Priyangu, Vanas and Pathya. Take a triad of substances from amongst them and add lo them one part each of Sandal and Turushka, a half of Nakha and a quarter of Satapushpa, and fumigate them with Katuka, Hingula and jagger. In this way are prepared 84 perfumes of the fragrance of Bakula flower.
31-33Put tooth-sticks for a week in cow’s urine mixed with the powder of Haritaki and then taking them out, dip them again in scented water, which is to be prepared from small cardamoms, Twak, Patra, Anjanar, honey, pepper, Nagakesara and costus. Keep the sticks in this for some time (half a night); then powder them with a mixture of four parts of nutmeg, two of Patra, one of small cardamoms and three of camphor, and let them dry in the Sun’s rays.
34Such tooth-sticks give the user freshness of colour, facial lustre, cleanliness of the mouth, fine smell and an agreeable voice.
35Betel stimulates love, sets off the physical Charm, creates popularity, gives good smell to the mouth, strengthens the body, and dispels diseases arising from phlegm. It also bestows many other benefits.
36A moderate dose of lime used with betel leaves gives good colour; an extra quantity of areca-nut spoils the colour; excessive lime produces bad smell in the mouth, but an extra quantity of betel-leaf, pleasant smell.
37At night it is beneficial to have an overdose of betel-leaf, while by day, of areca-nut- To change this order is a mere farce of betel chewing. When betel-leaf is made fragrant by Kakkola, areca-nut, clove and Jatee, it makes one happy with the joy of amorous intoxication.